Georgian Coral Jewelry

Ever wondered why so many portraits from the early nineteenth century feature coral jewelry? You haven’t? Trust us, it’s everywhere. 

Portrait of Lady Caroline Gordon, Thomas Barber the Elder, c. 1814.

Portrait of Lady Caroline Gordon, Thomas Barber the Elder, c. 1814.

For many thousands of years, Western societies have believed coral to be a magical gem with all sorts of protective powers. 

Giovani D'Medici wearing a coral branch amulet, painted by Agnolo Bronzino c. 1545. 

Giovani D'Medici wearing a coral branch amulet, painted by Agnolo Bronzino c. 1545. 

In the Georgian era, it became an especially popular adornment for children and young women, who were thought to be the most vulnerable to illness and thus in need of extra protection! We have several of these pieces in our cases at the moment: a pair of carved coral “chain” bracelets c. 1840, and a coral cluster brooch c. 1805. Here they are below:

You can see the actress, Mrs. Sarah Siddons, wearing similar pieces in this portrait c. 1804:

Mrs. Sarah Siddons by Sir Thomas Lawrence. 

Mrs. Sarah Siddons by Sir Thomas Lawrence. 

Supposedly, if coral jewelry retained its vibrant red hue it meant the wearer was happy and healthy. If the wearer was in bad health or in danger of becoming sick, the coral would turn pale. So, bright coral jewels in a painted portrait became an effective way to convey the wellbeing of the sitter.

We’re glad to see our own coral jewels have stayed happy and kept their color through the centuries. 

Say YES to Wednesday: Edwardian Sapphire Cluster

This stunning Edwardian ring features a 1.89 carat antique brilliant sapphire surrounded by a substantial halo of old mine cut diamonds. The gems are set in a lovely handmade platinum mounting with filigree shoulders and basket. 

Currently available at Gray & Davis!

Would you say yes?

Louis Comfort Tiffany at Green-Wood Cemetery

The other week I finally got the chance to take a tour of the historic Green-Wood Cemetery in Brooklyn.

The "Gothic Gates" of Green-Wood were designed by Richard Upjohn and built in the early 1860s.

The "Gothic Gates" of Green-Wood were designed by Richard Upjohn and built in the early 1860s.

Green-Wood was founded back in 1838, and is now designated as a National Historic Landmark. It's known for the impressive array of sculptural mausoleums and tombstones erected there by the elite residents of Victorian New York. 

I was pretty blown away by the Mackay Mausoleum, built by a family who made a fortune in silver with the Comstock Lode:

The Mackay Mausoleum, built in 1898 for $250,000. 

The Mackay Mausoleum, built in 1898 for $250,000. 

This mausoleum is way nicer than most modern-day New Yorker's apartments,  and is equipped with electric lights and running water because when you are as rich as the Mackays your ghost expects to be kept comfortable. 

Anyhow, the ghost I was really looking forward to visiting was that of Louis Comfort Tiffany, who was interred at Green-Wood in 1933. Louis Comfort, of course, is one of the most famous American jewelry designers to-date, remembered for his stunning Art Nouveau jewels and stained glass. 

This Opal brooch by Louis C. Tiffany sold at Sotheby's for just over $14,000 in 2013. 

This Opal brooch by Louis C. Tiffany sold at Sotheby's for just over $14,000 in 2013. 

I was expecting Tiffany's final resting place to reflect the aesthetics of his art--after all, he did create stained glass pieces for the mausoleums of several clients:

Magnolias and Irises was designed by Louis c. Tiffany c. 1910 and originally installed in the Frank family mausoleum. Now it lives at The Met. 

Magnolias and Irises was designed by Louis c. Tiffany c. 1910 and originally installed in the Frank family mausoleum. Now it lives at The Met. 

But, much to my surprise, Mr. Tiffany chose a plain granite maker with sans serif font as his final monument:

According to our guide, Tiffany felt that nature itself provided all the beauty that was needed. 

Antique Baby Rings for Grown Ups

Some of the most adorable items we come across in our antique jewelry searches have to be Victorian baby rings.

Back before things like choking hazards were really worried about, parents would dress up their infants and toddlers in miniature jewels made specifically for children. 

A brief foray into the world of Mom Blogs told us that today public opinion is generally against putting rings on babies, but that’s ok because it means us adults can coopt these baby rings for our own purposes.

Here are our three favorite ways to incorporate antique baby rings into your grown-up jewelry box:

1. Midi-rings!

Many of these baby rings are just the right size to be worn as midi, or “first knuckle” rings.  An old ring that perfectly fits a new trend!

2. Charm-ing Pendants!

This lovely gift idea speaks for itself.

3. Wallet-Friendly Engagement Rings!

We are big proponents of sticking to a price point that’s comfortable when buying an engagement ring, because getting engaged should be something that is 100% fun and wonderful and 0% stressful. Since antique baby rings are made with small gems and/or amounts metal, they tend to be super affordable! Of course, we can always size them up to fit your grown up finger.