Etruscan Revival Jewelry

It’s not uncommon to hear a certain style of nineteenth-century jewelry referred to as “Etruscan Revival.” But who were the Etruscans, and why was their jewelry being revived?

The Etruscans were an ancient people whose civilization flourished on the western coast of Italy from approximately 700 – 300 BC. Wealthy Etruscans were buried in massive tombs, along with their jewelry and other earthly possessions. Just like ancient Egypt, but with less mummies.  In the nineteenth century, a series of Etruscan tombs were opened, and the beautiful gold-work found within captured the imagination of the Victorian public.

Here are some of the ancient Etruscan jewels that were found:

Many nineteenth-century jewelers, the most famous being the House of Castellani, were inspired to create their own versions of these ancient pieces, hence “Etruscan Revival.” Characteristics of Etruscan style jewelry include use of high karat gold and semi-precious stones like lapis, malachite and agates, and most distinguishingly, the use of intricate filigree and granulation.

Below are some Etruscan Revival pieces from our collection. The all date c.1870s. 

Etruscan Revival brooches and earrings, gold, malachite and lapis. Nineteenth Century. All available for sale at Gray & Davis.

Etruscan Revival brooches and earrings, gold, malachite and lapis. Nineteenth Century. All available for sale at Gray & Davis.

Jewels inspired by the ancients: always a good decision. 

The Art of Morbid Anatomy

"The Art of Mourning" at Brooklyn's Morbid Anatomy Museum is in it's final weeks. For a taste of what's in store, check out this interview with museum founder Joanna Ebenstein, via Wisconsin Public Radio. While we highly recommend a visit to the museum, the interview offers a glimpse into their cabinets of curiosities for those unable to make the trip.

 
Victorian 14k gold and mother of pearl brooch/pendant with woven and applied hair. Available at Gray & Davis.

Victorian 14k gold and mother of pearl brooch/pendant with woven and applied hair. Available at Gray & Davis.

 

From the interview, we learned it's likely that the text on the brooch above was painted using a solution of dissolved hair. It's a slightly morbid, and very neat.

If you visit the Morbid Anatomy Museum in the next couple of weeks, be sure to check out our hair jewelry on display in the Museum's gift shop!

French Art Nouveau 18k and Star Sapphire Serpent Scarf Ring

Back in August when we gave a talk at the Brooklyn Brainery, some audience members ended up starting a long discussion about how brooches and pins needed to make a comeback. We couldn’t agree more! So many fabulous antique jewels languish away in cases, just waiting for somebody bold enough to bring back the brooch. So, to that end, say hello to our Art Nouveau scarf ring! 

18k yellow gold and star sapphire scarf ring.  French marks, c.1900. For sale at Gray & Davis. 

18k yellow gold and star sapphire scarf ring.  French marks, c.1900. For sale at Gray & Davis. 

A sculptural 18k yellow gold serpent coils around itself and sports a purple star sapphire on its forehead in this delightfully specific piece from the turn of the twentieth century. French marks, c. 1900. 

What is a scarf ring, you may ask? It is exactly what it sounds like: a large, decorative ring that holds a scarf in place. 

Our serpent scarf ring has a sturdy spring action pin that still functions perfectly. 

Though scarf rings are not as commonplace an accessory as they were in the early 1900s, Hermes still produces a number of styles. 

So, we challenge you to go beyond the world of ring-bracelet-necklace-earring (even though they are great). Accepting odd and forgotten forms of antique jewels into your repetoire will open up a whole new world of accessorizing capabilities.