Ring Maintenance: How to Deal with Loose Stones

If a gemstone ring is worn frequently, chances are that sooner or later the stones will become loose.  If this happens to you, don’t panic because it happens to everyone! You wouldn’t expect a car to be used day in and day out without every requiring maintenance, and jewelry is no different.  Our hands are busy---even when extra care is taken, over time a ring is bound to take a little abuse. Bumping into the edge of a drawer, getting snagged on clothing, and general wear to prongs can all contribute to stones getting a little loose in the setting. 

In order to be sure that a gem doesn’t fall out completely, there are some easy preventative measures that can be taken.

1)      Try to avoid wearing your ring while sleeping or doing any sort of manual labor. This will help keep the stones tight in their setting for as long as possible.

2)      Every once in a while, do the “tap” test. Hold your ring up to your ear, grasping the metal band. Tap the band lightly, and listen closely for any rattling noises. If you hear any rattling, it means the stones are a bit loose and need to be tightened.

3)   If there are any signs that a stone is loose stop wearing your ring, and bring it in to Gray & Davis for a complimentary ring checkup! This service is included for life with every ring purchase. We’ll tighten all the stones, give it a good cleaning and examine it to see if any other repairs are needed. Even if you don’t notice anything amiss, we still recommend bringing in your ring every six months to one year just to be sure. 

Georgian Coral Jewelry

Ever wondered why so many portraits from the early nineteenth century feature coral jewelry? You haven’t? Trust us, it’s everywhere. 

Portrait of Lady Caroline Gordon, Thomas Barber the Elder, c. 1814.

For many thousands of years, Western societies have believed coral to be a magical gem with all sorts of protective powers. 

Giovani D'Medici wearing a coral branch amulet, painted by Agnolo Bronzino c. 1545. 

In the Georgian era, it became an especially popular adornment for children and young women, who were thought to be the most vulnerable to illness and thus in need of extra protection! We have several of these pieces in our cases at the moment: a pair of carved coral “chain” bracelets c. 1840, and a coral cluster brooch c. 1805. Here they are below:

You can see the actress, Mrs. Sarah Siddons, wearing similar pieces in this portrait c. 1804:

Mrs. Sarah Siddons by Sir Thomas Lawrence. 

Supposedly, if coral jewelry retained its vibrant red hue it meant the wearer was happy and healthy. If the wearer was in bad health or in danger of becoming sick, the coral would turn pale. So, bright coral jewels in a painted portrait became an effective way to convey the wellbeing of the sitter.

We’re glad to see our own coral jewels have stayed happy and kept their color through the centuries. 

Louis Comfort Tiffany at Green-Wood Cemetery

The other week I finally got the chance to take a tour of the historic Green-Wood Cemetery in Brooklyn.

The "Gothic Gates" of Green-Wood were designed by Richard Upjohn and built in the early 1860s.

Green-Wood was founded back in 1838, and is now designated as a National Historic Landmark. It's known for the impressive array of sculptural mausoleums and tombstones erected there by the elite residents of Victorian New York. 

I was pretty blown away by the Mackay Mausoleum, built by a family who made a fortune in silver with the Comstock Lode:

The Mackay Mausoleum, built in 1898 for $250,000. 

This mausoleum is way nicer than most modern-day New Yorker's apartments,  and is equipped with electric lights and running water because when you are as rich as the Mackays your ghost expects to be kept comfortable. 

Anyhow, the ghost I was really looking forward to visiting was that of Louis Comfort Tiffany, who was interred at Green-Wood in 1933. Louis Comfort, of course, is one of the most famous American jewelry designers to-date, remembered for his stunning Art Nouveau jewels and stained glass. 

This Opal brooch by Louis C. Tiffany sold at Sotheby's for just over $14,000 in 2013. 

I was expecting Tiffany's final resting place to reflect the aesthetics of his art--after all, he did create stained glass pieces for the mausoleums of several clients:

Magnolias and Irises was designed by Louis c. Tiffany c. 1910 and originally installed in the Frank family mausoleum. Now it lives at The Met. 

But, much to my surprise, Mr. Tiffany chose a plain granite maker with sans serif font as his final monument:

According to our guide, Tiffany felt that nature itself provided all the beauty that was needed. 

Engagement Rings through the Ages

The Victorian Era: c.1830s - 1900

The wedding of Victoria & Albert, 1840. 

The Victorian era was a time of eclecticism in fashion and design. Historic styles were mixed and matched with international motifs and mechanized production techniques. Engagement rings were no exception! Though a diamond ring was considered a fine tradition, colored gemstones and pearls were combined with an endless variety of intricate mountings, meaning that there was no one specific "look" that a ring had to have to be considered an appropriate betrothal gift.

Victorian emerald & diamond ring with scrollwork detailing. 

Edwardian Era: c.1900 - WWI

Mrs. George Jay Gould isn't wearing enough pearls...

The Edwardian era is named after Queen Victoria's heir, who reigned from 1901 - 1910. It was a time of great prosperity and great formality, when American 'robber barons' acquired massive quantities of rare and precious objects to solidify their social status.  Platinum was newly available, and jewelers utilized it to create lacy, all-white jewels set with costly diamonds and pearls.

Edwardian ring with platinum filigree and white & yellow diamonds.

Art Nouveau Movement: c. 1890 - 1910

Camille Clifford is the ultimate Gibson Girl.

Not everybody was drawn to the high-Edwardian look, which was heavily influenced by traditional European court styles of the eighteenth century. Instead, some felt more inspired by the concurrent trend of Art Nouveau, drawing inspiration from flowing lines found in nature and the female figure. Insects, vines, languid ladies and especially peacocks were favorite motifs of Art Nouveau designers. 

Art Nouveau peacock feather ring with old mine cut diamond. Russian, c. 1910. 

Art Deco Movement: c.1920 - WWII

Gloria Swanson looking lovely/annoyed in 1921. 

After WWI fashion changed drastically-- the dissolution of old social hierarchies, the women's liberation movement, and rapid advances in technology and travel all contributed to the aesthetic that has come to be called Art Deco! Bold geometry, blocks of color and flat surfaces activated by line were characteristic of this new moderne style. In terms of engagement rings, this meant lots of impressive gemstones set in interesting geometric patterns. Metal was kept to a minimum, becoming an nearly-invisible frame to secure symmetrical mosaics of precious gems. 

Art Deco engagement ring with baguettes, single cuts and 2.15 carat old European cut center. 

Gilded Walls from the Gilded Age

Summer in New York City can get pretty sticky, and escaping to somewhere that isn’t oppressively hot and stinky has always been de rigueur for those who can afford it. 

The Breakers, Newport Rhode Island

Perhaps the fanciest getaway ever built was The Breakers, Cornelius Vanderbilt II’s summer “cottage.” Constructed in 1893 in Newport, Rhode Island (a favorite high society summer destination during the gilded age), The Breakers is a 70 room behemoth modeled after Italian Renaissance palazzos. 

Dining Room in The Breakers. 

While lavish decoration is crammed into every corner, perhaps the most opulent detail can be found on the walls of the morning room (what, you don’t have a room that’s just for the morning?). 

Morning Room at The Breakers

Detail of wall paneling in the Morning Room. 

Originally it was believed that the gleaming wall panels were covered in silver-leaf, but when they remained untarnished for decades conservators decided to investigate. They found that the walls were covered not in silver—which would have been impressive in its own right—but in platinum! 

This innovative use of precious metals ups the term "Gilded Age" to a whole new level. Well played, Cornelius.