Antique French Reliquary Pendant

We recently acquired a beautiful rose gold watch chain hung with an unusual locket fob. 

18k rose gold locket and watch chain. European, c. 1850. 

18k rose gold locket and watch chain. European, c. 1850. 

French import marks date the piece’s manufacture rather specifically to the 30 year period between 1838 – 1864.  The front is decorated with a simple, attractive pattern of dots. 

The back is where things get interesting: it’s pierced all the way through with an intricate vine-like design. 

Inside, is a thick slice of rock crystal that swivels on a hinge. At first glance it appears the rock crystal is simply a protective lens for a photograph or portrait, but a closer look at the internal workings of the locket shows that it really wasn’t meant to function that way.  

Our best guess as to the meaning behind this unique arrangement? The locket was likely used as a sort of talisman to bring luck or protection to its wearer. According to G.F. Kunz, rock crystal was traditionally believed to protect the wearer from the Evil Eye and bad dreams. The pierced openings in the back of the locket would allow the wearer to have more contact with the stone, thus increasing its effectiveness. Originally there may have been additional material stored within the locket as well – a piece of hair, a written prayer, or even the relic of a saint.  

We always love learning about the past lives of the jewels that come across our path, but it’s especially exciting to come across a piece that might have magical powers.  

From the Gray & Davis Archives

Below are a few of the fabulous jewels of Gray & Davis past. We’re glad these pieces went to good homes, but that doesn’t mean we can’t reminisce!

From top to bottom:

- An elegant Art Nouveau dinner ring in 18k yellow gold and diamonds

- Classic Art Deco diamond engagement ring with baguette step-down

- Late Victorian/Edwardian onyx portrait cameo

- Exquisitely engraved Edwardian platinum and diamond ring

- Victorian ring with three turquoises & rose cut diamond details

- Antique cluster earrings with rose cut diamonds

- A fun two-tone locket with diamond in mariners' star setting

- Matched pair of sapphire eternity bands, c. 1930

Silver Jewelry & the Aesthetic Movement

During the nineteenth century jewelry designers (and all the other sorts of designers, for that matter) were obsessed with historical revival styles. Classical, Gothic, Renaissance, Egyptian, you name it the Victorians revived it. While we love finding these revival pieces today (Etruscan Revival, anyone?), some Victorians started to get sick of re-hashing old styles and longed for design that was fresh, new and original. These people became followers of what came to be called the Aesthetic Movement, which celebrated ‘art for art’s sake,’ separate of any historic motifs or meanings. 

Aesthetic style wallpaper design by Bruce James Talbert, c. 1878. Victoria & Albert Museum

Aesthetic style wallpaper design by Bruce James Talbert, c. 1878. Victoria & Albert Museum

In 1854, around the same time the Aesthetic Movement was becoming a big deal, Commodore Perry and the US navy bullied Japan into a trading agreement with the United States. 

A Japanese woodblock portrait of Commodore Perry c. 1854 ... he wasn't necessarily Japan's favorite guy...

A Japanese woodblock portrait of Commodore Perry c. 1854 ... he wasn't necessarily Japan's favorite guy...

Beautiful Japanese artwork that had rarely been seen in the West was suddenly available at boutiques and world fairs across Europe and America.

'Evening Snow at Kambara' by Utagawa Hiroshige, woodblock c. 1834. 

'Evening Snow at Kambara' by Utagawa Hiroshige, woodblock c. 1834. 

Those inclined towards the Aesthetic aesthetic were enamored, and Western takes on Japanese art appeared on everything from teapots to jewelry. Many striking aesthetic-style jewels were fabricated in silver, and feature japanesque motifs like fans, flowers, bamboo and birds engraved on bold, geometric silver pieces. Oftentimes colored gold details were applied on top of the silver in imitation of Japanese shakudo work. 

This aesthetic chain and locket are currently in our cases at Gray & Davis.

The addition of delicate engraving on such large-and-in-charge pieces makes for quite a statement, even today. 

Antique Crystal Ball Lockets

Bubble lockets, pools of light, crystal balls – whatever you choose to call them, these charming rock crystal pendants enchant the eye and capture the imagination. 

Left: Vintage rock crystal locket with silver bezel on Art Deco steel chain. Right: 19th century rock crystal locket with 18k yellow gold floral bezel on 10k antique watch chain. Lockets and chains sold separately, all available at Gr…

Left: Vintage rock crystal locket with silver bezel on Art Deco steel chain. Right: 19th century rock crystal locket with 18k yellow gold floral bezel on 10k antique watch chain. Lockets and chains sold separately, all available at Gray & Davis.. 

Popular from the Victorian era through the 1930s, many of these crystal orbs are hinged and open to reveal secret compartments. Photographs, pressed flowers and even maps are commonly placed inside and magnified through the convex lens.

According to the famed gemologist G.F. Kunz, ancient Mexican peoples believed that “the souls of both living and dead people dwell in crystal.” After becoming entranced by a 100 year old portrait enclosed in one of our crystal lockets, I’m inclined to agree.